In the heart of Sri Lanka, far away from the bustle of the beaches or the calm of the cultural sites, is a region where the fragrance of tea wafts gently in the air. This is the Hill Country, where a new hiking trail connects visitors with locals, and showcases the story of Ceylon tea to the world.
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The Pekoe Trail runs for over 300km (186 miles) from Kandy to Nuwara Eliya, up and down gently rolling hills, sprawling tea estates, small towns and villages, Hindu temples and Anglican churches, and British colonial-era country clubs where sahibs once played cricket or rugby. More importantly, it takes you close to the lives of third- and fourth-generation tea estate workers from India, who carry out grueling work plucking, sorting and carrying tea leaves through rain and shine.
The trail is a responsible tourism initiative by Spaniard Miguel Cunat, who has called Sri Lanka home for over 20 years now.
How do I plan my hike on the Pekoe Trail?
One of the best things about the Pekoe Trail is that it is broken up into 22 convenient stages, with plentiful options for places to eat and stay at both ends of each stage. This essentially means that anyone with any kind of hiking experience (or not) can add it to their Sri Lanka itinerary – either walk the entire trail over several days, staying at a different place each night, or set up base in a comfortable homestay or hotel and hike the stages closest to it. It really depends on how much time you have in hand and how much of a hiking enthusiast you are. Generally speaking, you can do one or even two stages every day without too much effort.
Although the trail opened in late 2023, it has already amassed several supporters who are ready with tips and suggestions to help people plan their own trips. The Pekoe Trail Hikers Group on Facebook is an excellent resource with many experienced guides and hikers who have completed the route. It’s a good place to start if you are looking for resources or have questions about planning the hike. The official Pekoe Trail website also offers detailed resources to help you plan and organize the hike(s) based on your interest, fitness and time available.
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Detailed maps are available on the Pekoe Trails app, as well as on popular hiking apps like AllTrails and Wikiloc.
Which is the best stage to hike?
Every section of the Pekoe Trail has its own charm alongside the standard-issue tea estate vistas. Expect to see temples, churches, eucalyptus and pine forests, old bridges and new hotels, country clubs and tea factories at various stages. Assuming you don’t want to go the whole hog, base yourself at one of the major towns along the way and head out on day hikes on the nearest sections.
A few stages that are hiker favorites include the start and end sections, which are always popular and busy, given their proximity to the star-attraction towns of the tea region, Kandy and Nuwara Eliya. Stages 7 and 8 are on fairly easy terrain and take you right through the heart of the tea story, while stages 15 and 16, near Ella, offer diverse landscapes – like paths lined with towering eucalyptus trees and panoramic valley views from high up on Ella Rock – plus an intimate brush with the picturesque nine-arch bridge at Demodara.
Where should I stay along the Pekoe Trail?
If you want to fall asleep dreaming of tea after a long day hiking, then book a stay at one of Teardrop Hotel’s repurposed tea bungalows: Camellia Hills around Dickoya (for stages 7 and 8) and Goatfell near Nuwara Eliya (a convenient base for the last few stages). Another great option for stages 14, 15 and 16 is Amba Estate, a functioning boutique tea estate close to Ella, offering a splendid tea tour and tasting experience.
What should I pack?
Be sure to pack sunscreen and a hat, and also keep a rain jacket handy in case of sudden downpours. Also take plenty of drinking water and snacks. Given that the hikes take you through lush and humid forests and tea gardens, you need leech socks (not gaiters) to protect your feet and calves. Ask your guide or tuk tuk driver for the best anti-leech cream or spray available at local pharmacies.
Through your hikes in tea territory, you will see dozens of red, blue and green tuk tuks effortlessly winding their way through the hill roads – these are the cheapest and most convenient travel option for locals, and for you too. If you are constantly on the move each day, just take a backpack with what you need for the hike, and send your luggage along to the next town or hotel. All hotels and homestays and Pekoe Trail guides have contacts of reliable tuk tuk drivers who are used to this.
No part of the trail is really desolate, with a small town or settlement always within reach, so you can stock up on basics as you go.
Which is the best season to hike the Pekoe Trail?
The entire trail is open through the year, with regular maintenance and updates available on the Facebook group and on the trail website. The Hill Country could receive intermittent showers at any time of the year, so go prepared to walk in the rain and on muddy tracks. Also be warned that there are many stretches across stages with no shade or tree cover, which means taxing walks in the heat in the summer months between May and August.
How much does it cost to hike the Pekoe Trail?
So far, the Pekoe Trail has been free to hike, although there are plans to roll out a trail pass costing US$10 per person per stage that can be purchased online. Founder Miguel Cunat says that the pass is not strictly enforceable and will work on an honesty basis. There is also an option to pay for membership, which provides access to free hikes and trail-related events, discounts at some of the hotels along the trail, and regular updates through newsletters. All the money goes to the upkeep of the trail and conservation initiatives involving nature, wildlife and local communities.
Do I need a guide to hike the Pekoe Trail?
Strictly speaking, you can do the entire trail without a guide, since the routes are marked and maintained by the organization. However, having a trained guide – who will share stories about the tea history of Sri Lanka and about the people who live and work in these areas – adds tremendous value to the overall experience and is a great way to help support these communities. All the guides are local, and many of them have parents and grandparents who work (or have worked) in these very estates. The guides also double up as translators and as naturalists, pointing out animals and birds on the trail. The suggested guide fee is US$50 per stage.
